RC Beginner Series – Shock Positions Explained
This episode of the RC Beginner Series covers shock positions and explaining how changing your shock position effects the handling, dampening, steering and traction of your RC.
Many RTR’s and KIT RC’s come with multiple positions for your shocks to ride in – either on the Shock Tower or the A Arms on traditional RCs. Some non-conventional set ups like cantilever shocks will also have tuning capabilities with movement of the shock position.
Now, switching up the shock positions isn’t the cure all for the set up of your RC, but making small changes and testing will show small improvements until you get a result you’re happy with. Tools needed for this adjustment: typically a 2.5/2.0mm hex wrench for your bottom shock eyelet and a 5.5mm nut driver for the top mount. Consult your RC’s owner’s manual for specifics.
On the front, laying the shock down (inner most Shock Tower Mount and outer most A arm mount) will give the car a feeling of more steering and a softer shock. Standing the front shock up (outer most shock tower mount and inner most a arm mount) will give the car a feeling of more steering and a harder sprung shock.
On the rear, laying the rear shock down (inner most shock tower mount and outer most A arm mount) will increase traction but with a softer feeling in the shock. Standing the shock (outer most shock tower mount and inner most A arm mount) up will decrease traction but increase damping of the shock.
So, how are your shock positions on your RC? Test out how you can effect the handling, steering and traction on your RC!
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